- First registered in UK, supplied with short stubby screen
purchased by me with 2,000 miles on 'clock'
- both headlights bulbs needed replacing
- Nov. 1998, timing cam belt replaced as recommended - never fail to do
this because if it breaks the engine will be wrecked!
- Dec. 1998, rear wheel bearing failure* and final drive splines worn -
- both headlight bulbs needed replacing
- Jan 1999, poor fuel consumption traced to seized choke, on one side,
partially on. All three brake disks replaced, plus new pads, as well as
rear wheel bearing faulty* - replaced FOC by Honda - 'thank you.' Front
brakes binding - new seals.
- July 1999, headlight bulb replaced also anti-dive needle roller
needs replacing - symptoms: loud clunk when applying front brake at low
- August 1999, one headlight bulb faulty, glowing faintly, intermittent
fault. This has now been fixed - the bulb holder was burnt out.
- near side front fork oil seal leaking - to be replaced. Front brakes
partially seized on - callipers dismantled, sliding mechanism and
cleaned. New battery fitted - old one (original) losing charge when
not used for a few days.
December 1999 - Front brake calliper seals replaced
February 2000 - speedo cable seized - replaced inner and outer sleeve
old inner cable seized inside outer. Also new n/s headlight bulb
2000 - Rear brake calliper stripped down as it was seizing up - new
seals and pads fitted.
2000 - Cush drive rubbers in final drive replaced, restoring smooth,
take off. Should have done this sooner. Metal inserts in rubbers
were loose indicating wear.
splines need re-lubricating with correct Honda moly grease. Needs to be
checked every time wheel is removed from bike.
2000 - two new silencers fitted. Rust holes were appearing in ends of
ones. Danger is that hot gases will burn holes in panniers. You can get
cheap after market silencers but they do not have the underside 'cut
of the originals that allow easy removal of the wheel spindle and
silencer to be loosened each time to achieve this, which you don't have
to with the Honda ones.
fuse and holder corroded - replaced.
2001 - Brake pad pins replaced to overcome sticking pads.
to have done the trick.
instrument panel bulbs needed replacing. These are 1.7w
Whereas the warning lights for oil, indicators etc., are capless
All these bulbs are easily replaced by unscrewing the screen and
the two shrouds beneath to reveal back of the instrument panel.
is also a good way of getting at headlight bulbs to replace them.
2001 - Noisy cooling fan - all of a sudden. Major service (now -
restoration) and replacement timing belt due.
noise - the cooling fan housing is rusted and the loose fan was
to cause serious damage to the radiator - caught just in time. Don't
unusual fan noise!
box rusted - ouch! Stainless Steel replacement
linkage well worn
mechanism bearings well worn
worst of all, the swinging arm has rusted badly at the front end.
This is as a result of riding throughout the British winters with our
laden roads. The damage was hidden by mud and only became visible when
the dirt had been scraped off. I've heard of older ST's with only 60K
have had same problem after being used a few times in winter on salted
corrosion - note holes
on both sides of centre piece
a potentially serious safety problem. I suggest owners of high mileage
ST's should clean swingarm with a brush and hose each spring to check.
overhauled, new pistons etc.
167,000 Engine going
no oil - feels like a new bike after all the work.
from rear end. Inspection of diff oil revealed traces of metal.
diff fitted supplied via Partsearch for £70. Let's hope it lasts.
It's a bargain if it does. Now goes smoothly again.
Clock has stopped
April 2005 176,000.
Service plus new front wheel bearing and cush drive rubbers. Engine
still going well but exhaust pipe on its way out. Bike sold.
that the public phone number takes a long time to answer whereas the
number has priority and is answered straight away. Public number calls
cost £1.50 per minute - this is only cost for the search.
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